Of the six surviving seventeenth-century Franciscan mission churches in the United States, the four in New Mexico are are located within the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument.
Located in a rather remote section of the central part of the state, the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument preserves, via an act of Congress, the four mission churches and the remnant of three Native American towns where Spanish friars set to work on conversion over four-hundred years ago.
These areas were not always so remote though. Beginning about 1000 years ago, the Tiwa and Tompiro-speaking people moved into the Salinas Basin, constructing large, complex and prosperous trade centers. Salt, flint, buffalo hides and other trade goods reached from here to as far away as the mid-west, the Aztec Empire to the south and California to the west. When the Spanish arrived, nearly 50,000 people in eleven towns populated the valley.
Quarai
Early in the 1600s, Spanish Franciscans began conversions, at first accepting only volunteers. But by the 1660s the friars were vigorously suppressing native religions, forcing the people of the pueblos to worship in secret. Life became even worse when ex-soldiers, encouraged by the authorities in Mexico City, arrived to put down roots in the area.
“The soldier-settlers take up farms not only in the cultivated fields of the natives but even in the courtyards of our convents…Into this pueblo of Cuarac there came a soldier with a great number of cattle of all kinds, to a place where these three neighboring pueblos have all their cotton fields, and he build is corrals right on the fields…absolutely ruining them.”
- Fray Estevan de Prea, 1630s, New Mexico
By the 1670s, relations between the Spanish and the natives had become so bad that the pueblo people began to move from the area. Then in an already fragile environment, a harsh drought would prove most devastating:
“For three years no crop has been harvested. In the past year, 1668, a great many Indians perished of hunger, lying dead along the roads, in the ravines and in their huts. There were pueblos such as Las Humanas where more than four hundred and fifty died of hunger. The same calamity still prevails, for, because of lack of money, there is not a fanéga of corn or wheat in the whole kingdom.”
- Fray Juan Bernal, April 11, 1669
Gran Quivira
By 1680 the basin had been depopulated of both native and Spaniard. In 1690, the pueblos of New Mexico joined together and in a bloody and brutal rebellion, sent the Spanish packing to Mexico.
For hundreds of years the pueblos and mission churches of the Salinas basin lay abandoned to the elements.
The national monument was first proclaimed in 1909 and was administered by the National Park Service. It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1966 and enlarged in 1980 and 1981.
Abo
The monument now consists of the pueblos of Abo, Quarai and Gran Quivira. The Visitor Center is located at Mountainair.
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If You Visit
How to Get There
MAP of Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument
The Road to the Monument
Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument is located southeast of Albuquerque, New Mexico. From Albuquerque, the monument can be reached via Interstate 25 south to Belen, New Mexico, then New Mexico highway 47 to US highway 60. From that junction, the visitor center at Mountainair is just 21 miles east.
Another route, it to take Interstate 40 east from Albuquerque to New Mexico highway 337. Go south form there 54 miles to Mountainair.
Abo Ruin is located 9 miles west of Mountainair on US 60.
Quarai ruins is located 8 miles north of Mountanair on NM 55.
Gran Quivira ruins are located 26 miles south of Mountainair on NM 55.
Hours
Sites open daily
Summer hours (Memorial Day – Labor Day) 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m
Winter hours (rest of the year) 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Rest Rooms
Located at all sites
Fees
There are no fees. Camping is not allowed.
More information
102 South Ripley Mountainair, New Mexico 87036
(505) 847-2585
Abo: (505) 847-2400
Gran Quivira: (505) 847-2770
Quarai: (505) 847-2290
A Pronghorn Visits the Monument. Great Wildlife Viewing.
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Pueblo de Salinas
salinas mi pueblo
I would love to visit one day! I am a huge fan of all the old buildings and ruins!
We were at Quarai years ago and at the visitor’s center. We had lunch in the old hotel. We have yet to get to the other two sites. Great idea for a day trip when it gets a bit cooler. Thanks for reminding us.
Its a bit closer to you than me. I do wish they had a camping area for those of us who would rather make a weekend of it. Nonetheless, what a great place. The history is fascinating!
Me too Alexandra! I’m a sucker for pretty much anything over 100 years old. Come on over and I’ll gladly tour you around.
My grandmother was a professor of forensic anthropology, when I was a child each summer we would travel to different places for her studies, this is one of the spots she investigated. I was young and certainly did not appreciate what she was doing. I wish now I had paid attention and not been such a cranky traveler. Her her work took me to other areas into Mexico, Central and South America that I now see on the History Channel. All I really wanted was to go home and spend my summer playing with my friends. Such a brat I was.
Thats funny Frankie and oh so typical of most friends. What a great set of experiences you had tho!
John Mata, This is the new FB app. I think it should run more smoothly.
Another GREAT post by Jim O'Donnell! Really dig the Spanish ruins. The Spanish sure left their mark on the world; didn't they?
Ok. So we are back to the old plugin because the new one inexplicably blocks WP comment thread so……
Yes. The Spanish did leave their mark, in a huge way. From Asia to the Americas to Africa and all over Europe.
these pictures are just marvelous! stunning. great job jim!
another great photo piece by Jim O'Donnell.
Hi Jim,
Although I’ve been through this area several times, I did not know these missions were there. The next time we travel through this part of New Mexico, we will stop and check them out. Great post and nice pix.
Looks like a great place to visit. Love your postings.
Did you ever get down there?
Very unusual aren’t they?! But I like the Pronghorn best:)
I think I do too!
Beautiful photos Jim. I love old ruins and it’s why I love Scotland so much I think, with Castles on nearly every hill!
Me encanta! Very interesting. Reading this make me go back and feel how these people used to confront life…..Thanks…..
Thank you!